Food in the Islamic Middle East: A Case Study of the Sephardic Heritage Cookbook

The Sephardic Heritage Cookbook as an American Community Cookbook

The Sephardic Heritage Cookbook models key features of American community cookbooks.  For example, it includes variations on a single recipe.  Striking here are the many versions it offers of haroset – the paste-like condiment served in the Passover seder to recall the mortar that Jews, enslaved in ancient Egypt, used to construct buildings.  These variations on haroset – which, in a nod to the Middle Eastern and North African heritage of many Sephardic Jewish communities, run heavy on dates (as opposed to the apples and raisins common to Ashkenazi Jewish recipes) – helped the students to appreciate diversity in food practices across the cookbook’s community and within individual families.  

The Sephardic Heritage Cookbook shows its connections to American culture in other ways as well.  It reflects broader trends in American eating habits (consider the relatively recent and growing popularity of quinoa, which is indigenous to Peru and Bolivia), and lifestyle patterns (for example, the growing emphasis on convenience and time-saving short-cuts) that are common across the United States.

The Sephardic Heritage Cookbook offers a superb example of the American community cookbook genre, too, because its editors introduce their volume as a conscious exercise in group building.  This volunteer-driven, civic element has been a defining feature of American community cookbooks since the 1860s, when historians believe the earliest works in this genre appeared.  

Our class had the opportunity to speak to three of the women who led the initiative to produce the Sephardic Heritage Cookbook. They explained how their project, from its inception, aspired to connect more established members of the congregation (descendants of migrants from the Mediterranean region) with newer families of Iranian origin, who now form a majority of the congregation.  To write the book, they held parties where they shared food and swapped recipes.  Preparing this cookbook brought them together.  

The cookbook also reflects the community’s collective consciousness of its own diverse immigrant origins in the United States.  Writing recipes down, and citing examples of parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles, forms part of a concerted effort to preserve culture and memories for the next generation.   As such, production of the cookbook, which the society distributes mostly by selling copies to fellow congregants, has functioned as an exercise in heritage conservation.
 

This page has paths: